Maputo

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Maputo has been the capital of Mozambique since 1898. The city was previously called Lourenço Marques until the country's independence in 1975. It is the largest city in Mozambique and the country's most important harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Santo River in the extreme south, 90 km from the border with South Africa.

In comparison with other sub-Saharan African cities, the urban area feels small and concentrated, with wide avenues and old trees. People are generally out and about in the streets, walking, driving and getting on with life. The vibe is healthy and active, with little begging and lots of street vendors and markets. There is no heavy presence of police during the day.

Buildings range from old colonial palaces to new high-rise constructions, but the dominant architecture consists of Stalinist-looking concrete-walled boxes, generally with badly eroded paint and rusty security bars. Fortunately, these tend to fade into the background, and there are enough buildings with old charm and lush enough gardens (cycads, coleus, flamboyant, jacaranda, bouganvillea, etc.) to give a pleasing if shabby feel.

The city provides a range of accommodation, from many-star hotels (e.g. Polana, Cardoso, Southern Sun) to comfortable backpackers' hostels (Base and Fatima's) and reasonable options in between (Mozaic Guest House).

You can walk the center of the city by day but steer clear of the central business district at night.

Metered (yellow-roofed) taxi longer distances or at night but agree to a fare beforehand as many don't have meters. Ask hotel desks or locals for guidance on reasonable fares.

A very inexpensive way to get around is by mini-bus or "Chapa" (pronounced SHA-PAA). They work like small busses and have routes that criss-cross the city. All major routes begin and end in the downtown core/market area called "Baixa" (pronounced BAA-SHAA). If you can speak Portuguese, then this is an excellent way to travel, or if you have a local friend to take you. Even if you don't know which Chapa to take, it's a great way to explore the city, and to get back to the core market area just find a Chapa that goes to "Baixa." Generally asking the navigator (usually hanging out of the passenger side door) if they go to "Baixa" will either result in them motioning you to jump on, or them pointing to where you need to go.

Places to see:

 The Railway Station on Praca dos Trabalhadores is sometimes mistaken to be the work by Gustave Eiffel. However, the building is an imposing structure and well-worth a visit, especially at Friday or Saturday nights where live music often is played.

 The National Art Museum has a small but good collection of Mozambican art, including several large canvases by the world-renowned Malangatana.

 The Jardim Tunduru is a very pretty (albeit small) botanical garden.

 The Museum of the Revolution chronicles Mozambique's fight for independence from Portuguese colonialism(Closed in 2008 and by the looks of it will not re-open soon)

 The Mercado Central in the Baixa district has fresh fish, crabs, calamari, fruits and vegetables, and many household staples. Safe, lively and recommended, especially if cooking for yourself.

 Walk up Avenida Julius Nyerere. Start from the Hotel Cardoso or Natural History Museum along R Mutemba to Nyerere then left (north) to the Polana Hotel. Boutiques, restaurants, curio vendors, video stores, etc. to be seen in the relatively upscale Polana neighborhood.

 Praça dos Trabalhadores is a building built by Gustave Eiffel.

 Museu de História Natural, Praca Travessia de Zambezi (close to Cardoso Hotel). Enjoyable little museum. Lots of stuffed animals, birds and reptiles with full-size models of elephants. Interesting collection of wooden carvings, including a selection of traditional and very uncomfortable looking wooden pillows.

Nightlife:

 Coconut Club, Maputo, Costa de Sol. 10PM till late/early. A hip dance club. Expect to be blown away by the architecture, the dancing, the buzz, if not the prices.

 Xima's bar, on Av. Eduardo Mondlane, is popular with the locals and has live music on the weekends.

 Africa Bar nightclub is on Av. 24 de Julho near Av. Karl Marx.

 Gil Vicente is a bar attached to the Gil Vicente theatre, across from the 'Jardim Tunduru.

 Centro Cultural Franco-Mozambican has live music and cultural events.

 Central Train Station houses a jazz lounge on weekends.

 Feira Popular is in the Baixa, and houses many bars and restaurants.

 Dolce Vita Av. Julius Nyerere 800. New, upmarket bar with blue lighting.

Places to stay:

 Catembe Gallery Hotel, [ 14 luxurious rooms that are individually decorated by leading Mozambican artists. Inconvenient to find, approximately 45 min's from the CBD (via crowded public boat, then taxi), located on a remote dirt road on the opposite side of the bay. It has a bar, beach, library, pool table and swimming pool. Internet access is available.

 Hotel Cardoso, . Opposite the traffic circle from the Natural History Museum. Recently refurbished and is a solid 4-star hotel although things often tend to go wrong. Staff fluent in English. A great garden to have a drink in and watch the sun set over the Baixa and Rio Santo. Doubles with a river view and air conditioning.

 Hotel Polana,. The grande dame of Maputo hotels, a colonial era masterpiece by Sir Herbert Baker, famed South African architect (who also did the Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town). As close to perfection in service, food, pool, view, etc. as can be found in Maputo. Small casino can be a fun diversion. Good place to have a drink, or to have lunch in the Tea Room.

 Hotel Avenida . 5-star hotel on Avenida Julius Nyerere. Has large and fairly comfortable rooms. Rooftop pool and bar for excellent sunsets and a good way of appreciating the rather confusing geography of Maputo. Several restaurants (Thai, Greek, Indian and pub style) within a few minutes. Hotel shuttle to and from the airport available. Free access to the Internet.

 Radisson Blu Hotel [ The international hotel chain, Radisson Blu has begun construction of a 12 storey building with 154 rooms in one of the city's trendiest spots on the marginal road along the beach. This new property will feature a striking design, ocean views and will be competing with the best hotels in the city. There are several restaurants and bars across the road. Free Internet for guests and delegates. The hotel will hosts, an ocean view bar, a Filini restaurant (offering exquisite Italian cuisine in a stylish atmosphere), a cigar bar and a lounge bar. The hotel is due to open beginning of April 2011.